itchboy

This will purely be a vehicle replacement. Maybe period correct sirens too. EMS fleet started. I look forward to doing the ambulances and the EMS GMC Suburbans.

Some updates. I hope to have something out by next year, but Montana will still be my priority. The Diplomat (center) will be released in plain white form later. The 1997 and 1994 CVPI's were uploaded the other week as well.

In Blender, be in object mode and press Ctrl+A Click "apply rotation and scale". That might solve your issue. I no longer export using v3o from blender. Instead, I use .obj, import it into Zm2 and then export to v3o from there.

Theyre intended that way for Em4's door logic. To reset them, keep rotating them by 90 degrees until they line up. Then all you need to do is place them back on the model. They will not fit 100% exactly because the v3o file format intentionally distorts models for some reason.

Approved. Its up.

Say hello to Beaverhead SAR's personnel and dog transporter. This will also be used in my 90's LA mod as an ambulance. Stay tuned with that.

In my testing, the "alternative" doesnt work on vehicles. I could be wrong though and there's another way to do it. The NYC mod has that script and its possible for you to re-tool it to work with your setup. It wont be easy though.

Not compatible with 2.81 unfortunately. It is up to medicalByte to update it hopefully sooner than later.

Very nice work. All it needs is for the polygons to be "detached" so the black shadows across the model will be cleaned up. To the other modders watching, please take note. Pay attention to how the edges flow forward along the body and curve until it stops at the front. The roof, like on 99% of cars has a flat roof, the hood is where it gets tricky. Modern cars have that hood which starts along the side and then transitions forward into the hood. The little lip at the bottom of the bumper is also something thats not easy to pull off, but it can be done by adding enough rows so it connects at the bumper and grill, as you can see in alexCNP's model wireframe.

Im not too proficient with Blender. I dont even know how to render or UV map which is making life difficult for me, Doing 3D is not really about software specific skills. You just need to develop the eye for how to translate (aka estimating) how an object would be represented in software. Your attempt on the rear is pretty much spot on, and the hose reels look good. The cab is confusing because your eyes are getting tricked. Perspective in the 3D software can alter how one sees a vehicle in photos. All inaccuracies in my models are a result of me not being able to overcome this 100%, and in some cases, even pros like Hum3D have the same issue. I notice that you're having a hard time discerning the side/top/front windshield of the truck. I actually had that problem initially but I was able to find a better way to arrange the vertices so they better represented the part between the hood and windshield. The cab side part (door and wheel arch + headlight) was a separate object that was connected to the main body, a bit sloppy but it was a 1 hour model so.. The side part and wheel arch were done using a reference photo of the wrong truck as I found out this morning so the one that you do should be a little bit different. I can send you this incorrect model and it will be up to you to revise into the proper vehicle.

I only have radiation on main lightbars, but its because my PC lags quite badly under specific lighting conditions. Allow me to shamelessly shill my lights. All three light types are here. They dont look all that good because of the ground level angle but it should give you an idea. For the most part, you're right on it when it comes to rotator lighting, though I'd reduce the radiation even more than you already have.

Heres my attempt using a side picture of a similar truck.

I think the model outline follows the vehicle, however the part above the front left door/roof is too curved. Using blueprints or real pictures will depend on preference. People like myself and MikeyPI use real photos. Others use blueprints. Blender's bevel tool didnt do anything for me when it came to working on cars. It couldnt do the curves I was looking for...wasnt the magic bullet for making car surfaces. Instead I have to hand move them to place by hand. However, Blender and Zmod have a tool known as FFD (in Zmod) and Lattice Deform (in Blender) to curve out the outline of the model. Both programs save me the time and trouble of moving hundreds of vertices to form a believable curve on the outline, but wheel arches, door moulding, trim and the corners/front/rear have to be done by hand regardless. Something I did in blender using the extrude and move tool. This is an old box, but the logic still applies to modern cars. Doing this requires an eye for how to "subdivide" a real car into edges that you re-create in the modelling software.

Still alive but my focus has focused on other projects. More content will be finished for Montana soon enough.

Light timing: Generally all my lights have a flash frequency of 3.0 to 4.5 except for some super fast LED flash patterns. Some lights may be un-synchronized IRL so having slightly different flash frequencies can achieve the same look. If they're sync'd then they should all be the same frequency. Flash intensity will depend on the lighting type you are creating. Halogen has a very low flash intensity between 0.0 to 0.3 while strobe has the highest possible setting at 0.99 Flash offset is the key to creating patterns. Lets take 2 lights, A and B: ....if A has an offset of 0, and B an offset of 1, then you will get a left/right alternating pattern. Polygon lighting: Halogen and strobe are a single polygon with the color that you want (red, blue whatever) but adjust the color settings so the polygon is a dull, gray-ish variation of whatever color you do. Halogen/strobe white tends to be off-white with a bit of yellow from what Ive seen so thats what Id advise. LED requires you to double up (clone) a second polygon light over the first. Using the "polygon glow" setting is also highly advised. For the first polygon, go with a solid color with no mixing of white. The second polygon (the clone) should be all white, or be a whited-out version of the original color. Strobe and LED double (or triple, or quad) flashes: This is easy. Just make the light, but then copy paste a second one into the light editor. It might be in the exact same position with the same attributes as the original. What you do next is bump up the flash offset by 0.25 or 0.50 depending on what you feel. Lets say the original flash has an offset of 0.0. The second flash will be 0.25 and the third will be 0.50 You can also try differing combos like 0.0, 0.3, 0.6, 0.9 and so on. A common one used is 0. and 0.5 The weirdest one Ive done was 0.3, 1.4 to get a "skipping effect". Feel free to go crazy with this.

Having a runtime error like that is quite unusual. This might be the first time Ive ever seen that kind of error come up in Em4 ever. If you're using an Intel HD card, its possible that all the pre-spawned units in the London and Kent mods are causing your GPU to run out of resources to spawn all of them in, thus causing the crash.

Something you could try: Go into your em4.cfg file and edit "r_clipnear" to 10. That will give you more zoom because the model won't "hide" itself.

Amazing work on that. Im so glad there's people doing 3D models of cars now.